How the city moves
Riding the Local
Three lines
Western Line
Churchgate to Virar, and on to Dahanu Road
Hugs the west coast. This is the line for Marine Drive, Bandra and the beaches.
Open on this site: Churchgate, Marine Lines, Charni Road, Grant Road, Mumbai Central, Mahalaxmi, Lower Parel, Dadar, Mahim Junction, Bandra, Vile Parle, Andheri, Goregaon, Malad, Borivali, Vasai Road
Central Line
CSMT to Kalyan, then on to Kasara or Khopoli
Runs up the middle of the island and out to Thane. Meets the Western Line at Dadar.
Open on this site: CSMT, Masjid, Byculla, Matunga, Sion, Kurla, Thane, Kalyan
Harbour Line
CSMT to Panvel, with a branch to Goregaon
Follows the docks on the east side, then crosses the creek to Navi Mumbai.
Reading the indicator
Every platform has a board. It tells you four things.
DadarPlatform 3
18:04V VirarF15
18:07BO BorivaliS12
18:10A AndheriS12
S is a slow train, which stops at every station. F is a fast, which skips the small ones. Check a fast train stops where you are going before you board, because the next halt may be several stations past it.
Before you board
A minute at the ticket window saves a fine at the other end.
Buy a ticket first
From the booking window, the ticket machines in the concourse, or the railway's UTS app on your phone. There is nobody selling tickets on the train, and the fine for travelling without one is many times the fare.
Second class, first class or AC
Second class is the ordinary coach and the cheapest ticket. First class costs several times more for the same bench with a little more room. Air-conditioned trains run a few times an hour and need their own ticket.
Staying a few days
Ask for a tourist ticket, sold for one, three or five days of unlimited travel on all the lines.
Pick your hour
Trains into town are packed from about 8 to 11 in the morning, and trains out of town from about 5 to 9 at night. Travel between 11 and 4, or against the flow, and the same journey is easy.
On the platform
Everyone around you has stood on the same spot for years. Watch where they stand.
Find your coach before the train comes
Striped markings and signs along the platform show where the first-class and ladies' coaches stop. The train halts for about twenty seconds, which is not long enough to run for the right door.
Ladies' coaches
Every train has coaches for women only, some around the clock and some during set hours that are painted on the coach. Women can of course ride anywhere on the train.
Reserved coaches
One small coach is kept for passengers with disabilities and for cancer patients, and another is for luggage. Around late morning the luggage coach is where the dabbawalas load the city's lunch boxes.
Use the bridge
Change platforms by the footbridge or the subway, never across the tracks. People die on these tracks every year doing exactly that.
On board
A local is crowded, loud and almost always good-natured.
Move in from the door
The doorway is for people getting off at the next station or two. If you are going further, push inside, where there is more room than it looks.
The fourth seat
The benches are built for three. On a full train a fourth person perches on the edge, and the other three shift up to let them. Nobody asks; everybody adjusts.
Bag in front
Wear a backpack on your chest, as the regulars do. It takes less room and you can see it.
Stay inside the door
The doors stay open while the train moves. Hold on, stand back from the edge, and never lean out, however cool the breeze.
Getting off
This is the part that needs planning.
Start early
Begin working your way to the door one station before yours. Ask the people in front “Utarna hai?” (getting down?) and they will either go ahead of you or let you pass.
Ask which side
The platform can come up on either side of the train. Any regular will tell you which door to stand at.
Let the train stop
You will see people step off while it is still rolling. Do not copy them.
In the monsoon
Very heavy rain floods the tracks at the low points of the Central and Harbour lines, and trains run late or stop for a while. Look at the rain before you set out.
No fares or timetables here, on purpose: they change, and the boards at the station are always right. Before you travel in the rains, look at the Monsoon Room. To know what the person next to you just said, there is Bambaiya. And when you know where you are getting off, the Guide has what is around each station.