What the city eats
The Plate
29 dishes Bombay made its own, and the old counters in the guide where you can order each one.
Off the cart
Eaten standing, in under five minutes, for small change.
The Irani café
Marble tables, bentwood chairs and a bakery counter by the door.
The Udupi table
South Indian cooking that Matunga made the city's breakfast.
From the home kitchens
What Marathi and Gujarati households eat, and a few old dining halls still serve.
After dark
Slow-cooked meat, charcoal and bread from the old Muslim quarters.
Something sweet
And something cold, because it is always warm here.
A dish is only matched to a place where the guide itself says it is served, so this is a short list of sure things, not every good plate in the city. No prices, because they change. To eat your way through a neighbourhood, follow one of the Walks; to order like a local, learn what a cutting is in Bambaiya. Missing a dish? Tell us.